How would i go about getting my vehicle registered? whats with the antique auto tags? I want to be able to drive it more than on the weekends.
How would i go about getting my vehicle registered? whats with the antique auto tags? I want to be able to drive it more than on the weekends.
I recently got my license and am looking at auto insurances. Can someone find me a quote (or at least give me an idea) for a 16 year old male living in California. The vehicle would be a 2WD 1985 Corvette. I also have a clean record if that helps at all. Thanks!
What would be the best and the cheapest auto insurance for a girl 20 years old with a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with 6 cyn 4X4 and a security system???? Which one would you consider the cheapest auto insurance?
Im thinking of buying an antique car but im not even quite sure how the insurance and registration works.
I live in florida im not sure if it varies per state.
After years of waxing my car over and over it built up. This last winter it looks like some mildew got into the wax. How do I remove the wax with out hurting the paint job.??
I have AAA insurance when I had a minor accident (hit the car on the fence and got a dented door and scratched bumper). I sat on it for 2 years, and in that time frame, my auto insurance experied, got canceled, I renewed it, reactivated etc., etc.,
Now I want to sell the car and get it fixed. Can I still file a claim on my original policy?
1. Exactly how old does a car have to be?
2. Is it optional or can I just get regular insurance?
3. Does it cost more to insure an older car, even if it’s a piece of crap, but still runs really great?
Thanks!
I’d like to thank GMC for his answer about the VRO system. I’m a licensed auto mechanic and antique car buff and appreciate keeping things correct. I have just received my first boat and motor, a 1984 16ft fiberglass boat with a 1989 70hp Johnson with electric start and tilt. I’d like to hook up a tach to it so I know I’m in the correct RPM range at full throttle. I picked up a used OMC tach and a repair manual with wiring diagram and want to be sure of the hook up. If anyone can help, I’d appreciate it and any recommendations about care and maintenance would also be welcomed. I have to note my first impressions about driving a boat…. I was surprised at how different it was to driving a car particularly in response time. Sounds odd to hear this I’m sure , but I really am new at this. I really hate to admit it but I’ve trashed 2 props and lost one anchor already :-[
“Quick draw” involves having one’s hands in some normal position and a handgun in a holster that one might wear commonly. He draws the handgun as quickly as possible and hits a target with it at closer range. “Fast draw” was developed for movies in the 1940’s for drawing and firing a handgun loaded with blanks, so no target is used. To be good for quick draw, a handgun must be the proper size, both in the grips and overall. A 104 oz. Century Arms .45-70 revolver is hardly one’s best choice, and neither is a Little Ace .22 Short derringer. The handgun must be properly-balanced, so that it points naturally at the target. I personally find all-steel models are best for this purpose. Aluminum and plastic-framed models seem to lack the wonderful weight distribution needed. I have never tried quick draw with any single-shot handgun. I have used various single-action revolvers and semi-autos and various double-action revolvers and semi-autos. I own some antique watches and guns, and I even did quick draw with my Mauser “Military” nicknamed “Broomhandle” from its small grips. This gun debuted in 1896, and mine is a 1912 commercial version according to the NRA whom I consulted about it. I have tried the classic Luger “P-08″ as well. The grip feels excellent in my hand, but the pistol shoots high in quick draw, due to poor weight distribution. One with a longer and heavier barrel would be better, but too long a barrel is not so good for quick draw, so the Luger is out. The classic Colt “Peacemaker” (Single-Action Army Metallic Cartridge Revolver) that appeared on the frontier in 1873 is great for quick draw if one uses the “Artillery” version with 5.5″ barrel. It seems to practically jump into my hand and fire into the target of its own volition with astonishing speed. I did the “Poker Chip Draw” with it, i.e holding a chip with my arm parallel to the ground and drawing with the same hand when I released the chip (or coin). I regularly shot a playing card 36 feet way before the chip hit the ground. The “Peacemaker” is not recommended for novice, I warn everyone. It is a bit slow on the second shot. Its high hammer is easy to pull back in the draw but hard to reach when the gun is in one’s hand. The “Bisley” version is slower on the first shot but faster on the second shot, due to its lowered hammer. I began shooting handguns at age 11, and my first one was a Colt “1911A1″ .45 ACP semi-auto. It was good for quick draw. I think two later pistols are a bit better, since they have slightly better balance, and one has a better trigger. Oh well, which models of the basic types of repeaters do you find are good for quick draw: 1.) single-action revolver, 2.) single-action semi-auto, 3.) double-action revolver and 4.) double-action semi-auto?
Such people as Milkman quibble. I must write a book to forestall such evasions. READ THE FIRST FEW SENTENCES AND SEE! I think I made it rather plain without writing a book.
Thank you to Butch C for a comprehensive answer and some good choices with which I agree.
Mr. Gregg Andrews says I wrote a lot, but I did not write enough for Milkman. That is the dilemna one faces in asking questions on YA. MrGA says some of my words make sense. I write books, so this is just a small sample of what I write in books, and I try to make sense.
Sandra could write a book too, and she makes sense in what she says and knows history of guns. I agree with her in most cases. It is so refreshing to see a beautiful woman with a good brain who knows guns so well.
Kaye B must be a PeTA fanatic. She in quite insulting and does not answer the question, so I reported her, as all gun aficianados should do. We are not “idiots”, as she says.
John is wise to like the 1911 Colt for quick draw, and I began with it at age 11, as I said. I beat my father and two uncles the first time I shot it. I was a big and strong boy.
Young Miss Kobayashi has an important point. I do consider small girls with small hands in my writings. Some girls must use Pocket Handguns as Defense handguns, since they have small hands and are small overall as she is. Sandra and Miss Kobayashi show us that ladies can know much about guns and like them, while Kaye shows us mindless and insulting Ingrid Newkirk and Sarah Brady- inspired “Kuso”.
“Kuma no Kuso” (Japanese for “Bear Crap”), I do quick draw with a pair of S&W “M-29″ .44 Mags. I set 6 one gallon jugs 80 feet away and draw and shoot them all in just under 4 seconds. My most powerful revolver is a custom Ruger “Bisley” in .500 Linebaugh Magnum. With my light load for it, it has 1.76 times the recoil of my S&W “M-29″ with a load I often use that is a bit hot. With maximum loads with heavy bullets, it has nearly 3 times the recoil of the S&W “M-29″.
I found a 1938 breda M-37 at a local antique shop-the internals(the complete firing mechanism-receiver/gas piston)is missing (the top plate that opens so you can put it back together is also fixed shut so you cant open it to get inside the gun)the barrel is also welded to the gun so you cant change it out-but the gun and tripod are there-my question is…….is it legal because its a non firing display?…..or is it illegal period and can i get it legal through a.t.f. or what exactly do i have to do? I really want it but i dont want a felony charge for having an antique fully auto machine gun in my house(even though its been fixed to not fire) so any help and links to laws or legal forms are GREATLY appreciated-thanks